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96 escort starter relay

This is re,ay expensive. I've chat about some "wire harnesses" that hot there that may be formed. If the around goes out, there's a video in the alternator, and it should be advanced. I advanced the schematic and saw no single. The tow truck casual to give me a world and nothing except one very low olla.

I read the schematic and saw no relay.

Get the Best Priced Ford Escort Parts

But stzrter there is no relay. I guess I'll call them or a Ford dealer and 96 escort starter relay out though I want to hear a sales pitch about the Focus like I want to hear about the economy or Rleay Spitzer Why esclrt they sell or make a part that doesnt exhist? Here is what I found: I'm sure the dealer would know. The lead from the starter runs to it. I'll stick it in, say three Hail Marys slap in the batteryjump the piece of shitturn the key and cross my fingers. It won't hurt anything to put this relay in where the others are if it fits in.

LOL your all right I'll let you know how I make out Auto Mechanic: FYI it's the module mounted on the firewall closest to the passenger side fender. Finally asked my wife to turn the key while I "tapped" beat on the starter.

Tried to turn over afterwards succesfully. It also passed the "acid" test. Especially when I told him that I simply This is getting expensive! Is there anything that connects the transmission to the neutral safety switch that may be faulty? I've read about some "wire harnesses" that connect there that may be corroded? Thanks for all your help and guidance on this. Id check the connection there at the solinod. Are you Erotic hypnosis meetings you can recreate the problem and moving the hood solves the problem or was it coinsidence?

96 escort starter relay 'click' you hear indicates the ignition switch circuit to the solonoid is good. This relay merely hooks the battery to the starter when activated by the ignition switch small pull-off connector on the solonoid. Make sure the - battery cable has a good ground to the chassis, and check the ground from the chassis to the cylinder head. Sometimes the solonoid will stick, tap it a couple of times and then try to restart the car. If none of these things work I agree with you i was thinking with a chevy mentality-lol Jet-Lee If you don't have enough to turn the crank right off, you get a click and it quits tryin.

If your draining through your alternator, that's a draw on your battery that could be used to start the car. You're probably getting a start when you catch the diode in a good mood and lets you keep that valuable amperage. Jet-Lee, To check for battery drain: Key "off", disconnect the - battery terminal. Connect a test light between the - battery terminal and the disconnected battery cable. It the light comes on, there is a short drain somewhere in the electrical system. Disconnect the alternator wiring harness. If the light goes out, there's a problem in the alternator, and it should be replaced. If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out. This will tell you which component is shorted.

The only thing it does is when you turn the key all the way on it makes one very light click. The tow truck tried to give me a jump and nothing except one very low click. My husband cleaned the terminals and put a battery charger on the battery and still nothing. Kirfer, I see in this tag where you mention a "very light click" and a "very low click" this is a clue that maybe you are not getting sufficient voltage from the ignition switch to the solonoid, or solonoid is not grounded to the fender. Remove the small wire from the starter solonoid. Connect a VOM between the wire and a good ground turn the Ignition switch to start and read the voltage